Translated: Climbing Tech Tips 208 Author: Dave Pegg compile: Zhang Qing
If there is nothing I hate leaving things off, that is, after the fall-off knot how to unlock the safety belt. I can not tell why they yell and curse, is estimated to climb to fail already let me down, damn not open the knot more heavy depressed mood. whenever I was there when the vent grievances, my wife always pretended not to hear, but in the dog huddled next to fear.
The root causes of the scourge of my word 8 knot, the knot which is to teach beginners, but also the vast majority of people use to connect with the main rope knot belt but it has a big disadvantage: After loading become to be extremely tight. If you come to a more than ten meters of falls, it will certainly become difficult to untie let Houdini, whom headache knots.
Bollinger Bollinger double knot knot plus reserve (DBBB) can be experienced as a pioneer climb better choice for players. (Not recommended for beginners, because this knot more difficult to learn, but also more difficult to examine by sight. ) 8 words like knot like, DBBB is clean, neat knot, you can play in your safety belt. but unlike 8 knot word, DBBB tail is recovered toward the climber, will not form an obstacle in front of the stamp. and it will not appear DBBB solution to half of the state (8 knot word will appear!), thus avoiding the recovery of the rope, half knot card problem fixed protection points. Finally, double knot Brin largest after loading the benefits will not be locked - no matter how violent punch through fall.
Brin fight double knot, as shown, through the rope belt, marked double knot Breen
(Figure 1: right double Bollinger marked junction)This is very much like a single knot Breen: 'Rabbit' from the 'hole' drilled out about 'tree' lap, then back to 'hole' - the difference is that the 'hole' is composed of two ropes instead of a circle composed of loops. (double ropes to make it more difficult than single-junction Brin thereby automatically unlock a higher safety factor.) now, marked reserved Bollinger knot
(Figure II Figure III Figure IV).After completion of this step, e.g.
Figure V As shown, a portion of the icon to pull away the excess rope knots as close as possible so that the seat belt is then pulled from a sequence to all parts of the entire e will be able to tighten the knot. Knot lay It looks as
Figure VI FIG.
After passing through certain exercises, you can quickly play clean DBBB, your goal is to be close to the knot belt, to tighten the knot itself, leaving a tail about 5-8 cm long. It took me about 30 skilled DBBB minutes to play, compared to the previous bad experiences, this is really very cost-effective price. now, I blurted curse still falling, but later returned to the ground, never faced the knot does not open It plagued.
June 2003 translation
Original Source: http://www.v7plus.com
